I write about food but as I get more and more jaded with food trends (local and seasonal, eat the whole pig, oh you’re making gourmet burgers, how unusual, everyone but probably not their dog are making them, and you say that you make your own bread, well that is wholesome yes yes yes, stab me now), I am becoming increasingly aware that I am not necessarily a great cook. Or host come to think of it. Read More
Cheese is up there with coffee and wine. If you know what you are doing. For Mark Pitts-Tucker – official cheese taster at Davidstow – you can never have too much of a good thing. In a busy week, he tastes up to 700 samples at work and one of his favourite things is to go home and eat more. Read More
Chatting to Nathan Outlaw, there is a temptation to resort to colonial terminology and speak of an ‘Outlaw Empire’; after an interview perched on a sofa in the St Enodoc Hotel library, I realise however, that his ambitions are nothing of the sort:
Food and art are never far apart and taste is as extricably linked to the eyes as it is to the tongue. From the palette knife that ‘smears’ an unappealing ode to Van Gogh across the plate to the smoky drama of Hestons’ now controversial nitrous oxide gas, the baking of bread to look like mangled body parts and Carl Warner’s stunning foodscapes, food can be art and art food.
Whenever I talk to people about the slate-roofed Grade II-listed house sandwiched between Stein outlets that is Paul Ainsworth’s No. 6, the response has always been the same. Until now. The question, “Why hasn’t he got a Michelin star yet?” in incredulous tones has finally been answered. As of yesterday, the team at No.6 found out ahead of time that they have nailed their first Michelin star.
I originally fell in love with cephalopods: squid, cuttlefish and octopus – in Sicily, where I was lucky enough to live for a few blissfully foodie years. The markets were to die for, crammed with creatures that had died for the sheer pleasure of eating. The Sicilians know how to do food. We are merely beginners in comparison. I have a very vivid memory of a Sicilian fisherman ramming his fist deep into the belly of a live octopus, twisting and pulling back out again – within seconds, the octopus was sliced, diced and plated up with lemon for passersby. Real food for real people. Read More
Food by a top Cornwall chef, booze selected by a pro, and coffee and cheese prepped and chosen by a deli owner and 2008 UK barista champ? Forget fantasy football (in fact I have been trying hard to forget any football since Euro 2012, the penalty jinx and Rooney’s hair); this is fantasy dining for real. Read More
In BBC2’s recent Great British Menu heats, Nathan Outlaw defended the simplicity of his mackerel dish against a trio of smug food critics, stating unequivocably that ‘he believed in his dish.’ This is why he has the world’s only seafood restaurant with two Michelin stars: a dedication to flavour is a reality chez Nathan, not just chef-spiel. Read More
To send out the old and ring in the new, here is a selection of photos from 2011, the very first Year In The Life Of saffronbunny:
The best. Massage. Ever. Goldeneye resort in Jamaica.
Learning to be a preserving goddess with Pam Corbin and Liz Neville.
A coiled ray wing with confit duck skin for lunch at Paul Ainsworth‘s Number 6 in Padstow for BBC Olive mag.
The multi-talented co-founder of The Tea Appreciation Society, Shayne House.
The first ever Clandestine Cake Club in Cornwall.
Chris Ranger and the March Oyster Gathering at Mylor.
Meeting and interviewing Philip Stansfield who won the world’s best cheese in November 2010 (spot Alex James in the background looking excited).
Bubbles and booze at BinTwo, Padstow.
Cooking with Paul Ainsworth.
Crab apples at Tresillian House.
Meeting the moon gardener and guru John Harris at Tresillian House, an inspiration (photo byJohn Such).
The importance of foraging, especially for nettles.
Loving life in Cornwall (photo by John Such).
Tom Kerridge & Nathan Outlaw Masterclass, 5 December 2011 (photo courtesy of David Griffen)
Monday night in winter in Rock and second-home-syndrome means you’d be more likely to catch a glimpse of a flip-flopped zombie in a ghost town than walk into a restaurant buzzing with life, a film crew and three of the UK’s top chefs (Paul Ainsworth was a guest). But this is exactly what greeted us as we stepped out of the north coast cold and into … Read More