I have a thing for offal. Not a thing thing but just a thing. It is partly out of principle, a little bit out of bravado, something to do with price, a lot to do with taste and texture. I have eaten lungs in a bun, spleen with cheese, stacks of roasted marrow bones as well as the fourth stomach of a cow (lampredotto) and a part of the first to third stomachs (tripe).
Offal is divisive and never dull. There are only two camps: the horrified or the fascinated. There are many reasons why I choose to grapple with wobbling kidneys, slippery livers and sinuous hearts. One is an unshakeable belief that if we kill an animal we should be eating all of it. As offal advocate Fergus Henderson says: “Nose to Tail Eating means it would be disingenuous to the animal not to make the most of the whole beast; there is a set of delights beyond the fillet.”