Category Archives: Cornwall

What I didn’t know about meat. And why Philip Warren butchers are so exceptional

I thought I knew a few things about meat. That is until I met Philip and Ian Warren. And I realised I actually knew nothing. Particularly about the fragile moorland ecosystem that without Warrens, may not exist at all. But … Continue reading

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Nathan Outlaw: from Cornwall to the capital and back again

With the opening of a fourth restaurant in Looe – Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen – comes the temptation to resort to colonial terminology and speak of an ‘Outlaw Empire’; chatting to Nathan however, perched on the end of the sofa in … Continue reading

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Chocolate matters …

Chocolate advertising tells us a lot about chocolate itself and our attitudes towards the brown stuff (proletariat), the dark stuff (posh), the white stuff  (chocolate at all?). When Cadbury’s substituted the usual sensual codes associated with chocolate advertising (a woman … Continue reading

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Horse-free and homemade: The Kernow Sausage Company, Cornwall

It’s time for some foodie confessions. 1) I am a food snob; 2) I have a prejudice against processed meat; 3) pork scratchings still rule. The first (and I say this with some smugness) makes it highly unlikely that meat … Continue reading

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The Friday Review: Dances with Beerwolf Books Falmouth

Ironically, for a literary establishment that serves beer alongside books, Beerwolf Books are people of few words. But more importantly, the venue speaks for itself: fire, beer and books.

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The Gurnard’s Head – more than the sum of its parts

“Some people get it and some people don’t. We don’t have TVs in the rooms for example. What people can do however is come downstairs, sit in front of the fire and have a drink.” Manager Andy turns all the … Continue reading

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The Sunday recipe: Marmalade with everything please

Scraping a zester across the dimpled skin of an orange or hovering a split lemon very close to your nostrils and inhaling against the damp is the equivalent of culinary angel dust in winter. Not only can they literally boost … Continue reading

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The Friday Review: Oliver’s Falmouth

It’s not often that I sit down to a menu and want to try everything. Literally. The January menu at Oliver’s, Falmouth is one such example. Call it greed but I’d much rather lay the blame firmly with the owner … Continue reading

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Best Chef 2013 Emily Scott reveals what life is like behind the scenes at The Harbour Restaurant, Port Isaac

The world of food is undoubtedly a male-dominated one. I say this not as a feminist but simply as a matter of fact. I wrote a piece on the Great British Menu 2012 in which it was noted that only … Continue reading

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Bringing back the bacon to Cornwall for Farmhouse Breakfast Week

According to Jay Rayner, we may well be sick of hearing about ‘dirty fast food’ in 2012; sick even, of hearing people say they are sick of it. Bacon is different. Unlike sausages, hot dogs and burgers (whose recent ‘inclusive’ … Continue reading

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